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Medicine and Women's Clothing and Leisure Activities in Victorian Canada Eileen O'Connor, Ph.D. North American physicians attained different kinds of authority in the nineteenth century: a “cultural authority” which implied the power to define health, illness and healing, and a “social authority”, which led the public to accept their advice. [1] This article will focus on the development of physicians’ “cultural authority” in the field of women’s fashionable dress and leisure through their studies and experiments in heat regulation and professional education and training in Gynaecology. This article will discuss how the dress “problem” was constructed in medical textbooks and journals published or distributed in Canada during the nineteenth century, and will argue that the increasing focus on women’s dress was closely linked to the medicalization of greater aspects of society, all within the context of the professionalization of medicine and the search for new forms of authority. [2] The Rise in the Medical Interest in Dress: Heat Regulation Physicians have long believed that disease was caused by disturbance in the fluids. Thus, good health was to be maintained by wearing fibres that encouraged a balanced circulation and excretion of fluids. [3] External factors like dress were believed to affect health because if clothing overheated the body, it could block perspiration. Medical historians E.T. Renbourn and W.H. Rees traced the medical interest in clothing back to the 5th century B.C. when Empedocles, a Greek philosopher, drew an analogy between the circulation of blood in vessels and the circulation of air. Air vapours were believed to be squeezed in and out of invisible pores throughout the body. This circulation, or skin breathing, involved the continuous liberation of invisible perspiration insensibilis. [4] Historian E.T. Renbourn explains: “Great importance was attached to the cutaneous respiration, for not only did it allow the smoky or fuliginous vapours of the heart to get out partly through the skin pores, but also water vapour and the insensible excretory matters of the body poured out through this channel.” [5] If the perspiration was obstructed, either by damp or cold air, damp clothes, damp bedding, wet feet or by the chilling of the skin, it was forced inward to the internal organs through a process of metastasis. This was believed to cause a cold or catarrh of the head, inflammation of the brain, lungs or kidneys, an excessive flow of urine or a looseness of the bowels. Thus, keeping skin pores open was necessary for a healthy body. Yet, conflicting theories of skin breathing, open pores and the regulation of hot/cold body temperatures were debated throughout the nineteenth century in light of new findings from laboratory experiments. Since shifts in clothing theories were most often construed as a hygienic matter, the authority and expertise of physicians in the physiology of the body was not undermined. Indeed, their knowledge in heat regulation that was first expressed in an army-research context, laid the groundwork for their eventual expertise in matters of health and dress. Professional Knowledge and Authority in Canada In Canada, from the late 1830s to 1869, the quest to achieve professional status influenced how physicians practiced medicine. [6] Educational standards slowly eliminated the eclectics and homeopaths, who already exercised only limited power. [7] Specialized education and training in Gynaecology and Obstetrics started in the 1870s when Dr. William Gardner was the first gynaecologist appointed to McGill in the early 1870s. Queen’s students received their first courses in Gynaecology in 1890-1891, and the curriculum at Trinity Medical College included a gynaecology textbook in the 1890s. The practice of Gynaecology can also be traced to the 1870s when women and children had their own ward with an examining table “for the purpose of better serving the interests of gynaecology”. [8] As more physicians became specialists in Gynaecology, separate wards began to appear in hospitals in the 1890s. Gynaecologists and Obstetricians became specialized “experts”; they focused on framing diseases linked to “women’s” bodies, and in experiences specific to women’s bodies, such as menstruation, pregnancy, childbirth and menopause. Constructing Medical Authority on “Restrictive” Dress Physicians have long been interested in the impact of swaddling and constriction on the development of bodies. Prior to the French Revolution, the corset was viewed in the context as a continuation of swaddling clothes, as a protective, corrective mould for soft bodies, especially in the case of children. [9] Concern took on a renewed focus during the French Revolution, when intellectuals wrote treatises on the corset. Eighteenth-century anatomists increasingly turned their attention to the ways in which clothes affected the female body, and developed the theory that corsets caused deformation. In the late 18th century, Drs. Tissot, Rousseau and Hardy all wrote on the ‘dangers’ of the corset. [10] Stiffened corsets and swaddling clothes were blamed for degeneration, weakness and organ deformities. The corset was no longer considered a preventive mould, and physicians advocated freedom and exercise to permit the body to grow strong. [11] In 1793, German physician Samuel Thomas von Soemmering listed almost one hundred physicians who had previously written against the corset. His research led him to conclude that a great number of diseases were attributed to the corset, and included abnormal menstruation, miscarriage and breast tumor; weakened abdominal muscles, and abnormally shaped liver; spinal deformities and injuries from cracked ribs; shortness of breath, palpitation and fainting; chest complaints, consumption, and chlorosis. Through his anatomical drawings of women’s bodies, von Soemmering constructed a binary opposition of a healthy and deformed body. This and other drawings, which graphically illustrated the ‘perils’ of tight lacing, were reprinted in medical textbooks around the world. In the early nineteenth century, physicians drew inspiration from von Soemmering’s work and repeated his conclusions in their own treatises. Dr. Debay’s Hygiene and Physiology of Marriage, which went through 171 printings, repeated von Soemmering and Rousseau’s arguments against wearing corsets. Based on forty years of clinical observation of 100 young female patients, he found:
Also influenced by Dr. von Soemmering was Dr. Combe, who wrote several texts on the dangers of tight-lacing. He compared the contours of women’s bodies with that of the ‘natural’ body of the statue Venus de Milo: (See Figure 16)
Indeed, the statue of the Venus de Milo was frequently referenced in medical and prescriptive texts as an ideal form of a woman’s body, itself an artist’s construction of ‘perfect’ measurements. From 1829 to the mid 1860s, the literature on corsets and disease was relatively sparse, despite the fact that dress styles in the 1860s could be considered to be the most “restrictive” in the nineteenth century. As discussed in chapter two, wardrobes for middle to upper class women in 1860 included tight-fitting bodices, hoops and crinolines. [14] The paucity of medical literature on women’s ‘restrictive’ dress during the 1860s lends support to our hypothesis that discourses on corsets were less about the actual effect of the garment on the body, than about changing attitudes towards women’s bodies and behaviour, the declining birth rate, and the decline in number of married women. [15] Hence, physicians’ marginal interest in dress during the first half of the nineteenth century was due more to the status of medical professionalization in Ontario and Quebec than the clothing itself. As physicians in Canada received specialized education and training in Gynaecology in the late nineteenth century, more medical textbooks were read and debated in University, providing physicians with more experience in which to ground their theories on dress. Queen’s Professor Kenneth Fenwick’s Manual of Obstetrics and Gynaecology blamed women’s displaced uterus on the dress adopted by “the girl of the period”. For Dr. Fenwick, the corset compressed the abdominal organs causing muscles to become atrophied, displacing the viscera, leading to congestion of blood in the pelvic organs and the distortion and displacement of the uterus. [16] In the opening chapter of a standard North-American textbook on the general causes of diseases of women, Dr. Charles Penrose, former surgeon and professor of Gynaecology at the University of Pennsylvania, discussed diseases peculiar to all females, including animals as well as “barbarous” and “civilized” women: In the cow and the mare we find tumors of the vagina, prolapse of the vagina and uterus, fibroid tumors, sarcoma and cancer of the uterus, and some forms of ovarian cysts.” [17] While “barbarous” women were prone to similar diseases, civilized women were considered in greater jeopardy due to their lack of strength and physical endurance, a situation made even worse when they were ill. Civilized women invited disease through assumed neglect during menstruation, leading an ‘improper’ life and not having children. Paradoxically, being sexually active increased one’s risk of venereal disease. Finally, many diseases of women stemmed from injuries received during pregnancy. [18] For Penrose, improper clothing and an improper mode of life during the period of development were also most fertile sources of diseases of women. He focused his observations on clothing that contracted the waist. He made an important distinction few other physicians had done before. Penrose differentiated between the impact of clothing on active and inactive bodies. In an inactive state, he found corsets were not “too tight”. Once women were involved in activity however, he believed the capacity for abdominal respiration was greatly reduced. Restricted abdominal expansion forced the pelvis organs toward the pelvic floor. Dr. Penrose concluded that the pelvis was not the only organ displaced: “the continuous support to the abdominal wall diminishes their natural muscular strength and places the woman in a condition predisposing to the various displacements of the uterus. [19] Organ displacement, poor circulation and prolapsed uterus were also linked to corsets in the work of Dr. Garrigues. [20] Like Dr. Penrose, Dr. Garrigues found corsets weakened the abdominal wall, pushing the liver and intestines forward. [21] Dr. R. W. Garrett echoed these conclusions: “Of all the injurious influences to which is attributable the great mass of disease now so prevalent, the greatest is the custom of the alteration of the form of the body and of the position of the internal organs by compression of the lower thorax and abdomen by means of corset.” [22] Wearing a corset was also believed to prevent women from taking in sufficient oxygen, causing their blood to deteriorate and muscles to become weak. [23] Dysmenorrhoea was another common disease among women that was also linked to women’s dress and lifestyle. When young women ‘shed their flannels to dress up for a dance’, they ran the risk of a sudden suppression of menstrual secretion, which ultimately led to uterine complaints. [24] Dr. J. Algernon Temple concluded that there were two main reasons why so many young women suffered from “deranged’ menstruation. First, the weight of the clothing was concentrated around the waist, pressing the uterus down. Second, many young ladies lived an “artificial” life, by dancing and going to bed too late, which Temple felt caused anaemia. Thus, his medical authority addressed not only clothes, but also behaviour, and his observations were not limited to middle-class women:
Since clothing was considered a
significant cause of disease in women, and one that was remediable, it gave
impetus to the preventive side of medical practice in
The resulting pendulous state of the breasts therefore
requires artificial support, and this is best supplied by well-fitting corsets.
This has been overlooked by those who would institute immediate reform,
entirely abandoning this article of clothing. It would take several generations
to cultivate a form and figure that would admit the disuse of corsets in mature
womanhood. [29] For those who tight-laced however, Skene’s prognosis was
similar to that of his colleagues: displaced uterus and ailments of the liver,
stomach, kidneys and intestines.
Dr. Skene’s divergent opinion on the
merits of properly-laced corsets did not come under attack. However, a female physician who challenged
the pervasive medical discourse on corsets met a different fate. In 1889, an unsigned two-page article
entitled, “Is the Corset
Injurious?”appeared in The
The article challenged the “lady
physician” on her medical observations, findings, and also her competence. It
stated that any serious student of physiology who comprehends the human body
would have no difficulty understanding the relation of tight lacing to the
above diseases: “He will see that pressure on the bile ducts will cause
retention of bile and deposit of gall stones. He will understand that the addition of many pounds of squeezing
pressure to the weight of the abdominal contents will break down the delicate
muscles leading to displacement of the womb.” [33] The emphasis on “he” is no accident, as it necessarily undermined the female
physician’s authority. In fact, “lady
physicians” were placed in a somewhat delicate situation. As physicians, they were aware of the
literature condemning the corset, but as upper-middle class women, they would
have been encouraged to dress in an appropriate manner to her class level.
Although physicians discussed ‘women’ in a universal
sense, their main concern was women of the upper and middle classes. This focus was due to the fact that most
clients were prosperous, and as learned men, they were concerned with the
bodies of people of their own classes. In addition, North American medical concerns for white, middle-class
women’s dress revealed deep racial concerns for the purity of the race and the
problem of regeneration. In their
rhetoric against tight lacing, direct links were made between tight lacing and
the impact it would have on women’s roles as mothers of the race. Dr. William
Goodell argued that: “if you can’t convince women to stop tight lacing, at
least try to reform their daughters. The family physician can solemnly adjure
the tightly-harnessed mothers of the land not to allow their growing and
romping daughters to put on the maternal armor” [34] A key feature in this discourse was the duty of the
physician to “convince” women to alter their clothing practices, without
addressing the problem of a lack of clothing choices. If a woman wished to remain respectable,
there were few acceptable middle class dress alternatives. Physicians thus employed a maternalist
discourse that spoke of “maternal armor”, conjured images of knights in
battles. In this case, it was construed
as a battle that the informed and knowledgeable male physician waged against
the irrational, insecure and fashionable woman who eschewed her
responsibilities of wife and mother. Physicians urged middle-class women to think of their health in terms of
the well being of the nation and of the next generation. Particular attention was given to pregnant
women, as tight lacing was believed to be the main reason for stillbirths or
any complications arising during delivery. More male infants and children were dying than females, which no doubt
heightened the concern for the health of pregnant women and mothers. [35] As boys contributed to the family economy and carried
the family name, additional efforts would have been made to ensure that male
boys survived childhood.
Canadian physicians used several strategies to
encourage women to stop tight lacing. For some physicians, one way was to attempt to change the attitudes of
the husbands. For physicians like Dr.
Lapthorn Smith, part of the blame lay with “short-sighted men” who continued to
admire and marry a thin-waisted woman, while she “only tries to fill the want
which man desires”. If men could be made
to understand that a thin waist meant a sickly, and consequently, a costly
wife, then they would construct beauty in terms of breathing capacity and large
waist size. If the medical community could convince men of this, then it was
believed that women would voluntarily discard “the implement of torture which
they have so long and so patiently been accustomed to bear.” [36] In a series of articles on the relation of corsets to
women’s diseases, Dr. A. Lapthorn Smith, a Gynaecologist and Professor at
Bishops’ University thus distributed the blame between women, men, ‘fashion’
and ‘civilization’:
I do not think that women are alone to blame for
wearing tight corsets. They only try to meet a demand. If men admired women of
natural shape more than thin waisted girls, the supply of the latter would soon
cease to come on the market. So we
should educate our male acquaintances to understand the probably sickliness and
costliness of corset-laced wives. [37] As the regulation of medical practice in
Medical Attitudes
Towards “Natural Dress”
Discourses on regulating body
temperatures often used terms such as “natural”, “sanitary” and “hygienic” to
describe the prescribed underclothes. Nineteenth century medical discourses focussed on the “unnaturalness” of
wearing corsets and the “unnatural” conditions that prolonged corset wear could
cause. Their main concerns were that
women would develop weak mammary glands and weaken their abdominal wall. The
recommended clothing itself was called “rational” dress, thus conveying the
message that current clothing practices were irrational. Ideally, “natural” clothes were constructed
as garments necessary for modesty and the protection of the body from the
elements. The colours were inspired from
nature, and the fabric and cut of the material were believed not to draw
attention to the silhouette, but to loosely adorn the body.
Haultain’s analysis of women’s articles
of clothing led him to conclude that the large amount and weight of material
massed about the “organs of generation” went directly against nature. [39] His comparison to the natural world was based
on his observation of a horse, a cow, two dogs, a cat and a squirrel. He remarked that all of these animals
displayed a scarcity of hair near their generative organs and the underside of
their abdomens, thereby sufficient for the “internal generative apparatus” to
preserve the proper degree of temperature. Observations of women’s clothing indicated just the opposite; the
prolongation of the stays over the abdomen meant the body fat was pushed below
the waist, and together with the accumulation of garments at the waist, led to
a high level of heat retainment. Even
worse, some women padded corsets, to “add fullness to figures wanting the bosom
roundness” with a wasp waist.
To encourage women to return to a
nostalgic era of “natural” dress, the modern, civilized community was thus
constructed as “artificial”. Canadian
physician Lapthorn Smith defined “Civilization” as “the ensemble of social
customs, habits, and refinement of manners, comforts and luxuries which are not
practised or enjoyed by human beings in the savage state.” This was evidently
not a positive ensemble: “That these altered circumstances are changing the
nature and health as well as giving a different complexion to the diseases of
women is tolerably well known”. [40] Outdoor, strong, natural “savage” women were juxtaposed against the confined,
weak, artificial civilized woman. Yet, Canadian physicians did not encourage
middle class women to be free to run outdoors, grind corn and carry water. Although the binary opposition served its
purpose to relate the lack of ‘savage’ women’s diseases to her dress and
lifestyle [41] , medical practitioners still preferred the
sensibilities and modesty of the Victorian middle class woman’s dress code.
When discussing exercise, physicians did
not always agree on what constituted appropriate behaviour for women. An illustrative example of this was the debate
on whether cycling was appropriate for women. [42] A series of letters published in the Dominion Medical Monthly and Ontario Medical
Journal in 1896, expressed concern that women seated on bicycle seats could
have orgasms. [43] Fearful of unleashing and creating a nation of ‘over-sexed’ females, some
physicians urged colleagues to encourage women to eschew ‘modern dangers’ and
continue to pursue traditional leisure pursuits. However, not all medical colleagues were
convinced of the link between cycling and orgasm, and this debate on women’s
leisure activities continued well into the twentieth century.
Canadian physicians did raise concern on the
naturalness of men’s dress, albeit less commonly. In 1889, an article in The Canada Medical Record states, “It is commonly supposed that it is only foolish women or helpless
children who require advice. There are perhaps at least as many men as women
who suffer from the effects of cold through injudicious neglect of the clothing
suitable for winter use”. [44] Men who wore their coats open, or whose coats were
lined with cotton instead of flannel were believed to contract rheumatism or
pneumonia more frequently. Their gloves
and boots did not escape attention either: cold hands and chilled feet were
attributed to thin socks and tight thin boots. They were encouraged to wear
flannel undergarments and high fitting waistcoats under their shirts during a
Canadian winter. “The wiser man is he who changes his clothing according to the
weather in such a variable climate as ours.” [45]
Physicians held diverging opinions as to
the degree of their responsibility as “experts” on woman’s bodies. Some felt once they had fulfilled their duty
by outlining the problems associated with dress, it was either up to women to
take charge of their bodies and make wise decisions, or it was up to men to
reconsider notions of beauty, and stop encouraging women to dress in an
‘unhealthy’ fashion. For example, Royal Academician G.F.
While Haultain felt the medical community
did not need to be further involved, it was also because he felt the problem of
women’s dress was somewhat trivial. Hence, he urged the medical community to leave discussions of high heels,
small gloves and tight-lacing to the “irresponsible literati”, and concentrate
on issues of greater importance, namely the irregularities in heat regulation
due to ‘unnatural’ methods of dressing. For Haultain, the physician’s duty was to show the violations of the
rules of health and “to combat any arguments that may be raised in their
defence. If we can thoroughly persuade
mothers to see the evils with which the prevailing fashions are pregnant, we
may trust the remedies to their own good sense and acute inventive genius”. [49] Thus, it was up to women, ingenious, trustworthy women, to make the right
clothing decisions based on the scientific principles presented to them by
physicians. [50]
Dr. Lapthorn Smith’s longest discussion
on the ‘evils of fashion’ was entitled ‘What Civilization is Doing for the
Human Female’. [51] Here ‘Civilization’ was constructed as an active agent, preying on passive
female bodies. He urged the medical
community to use all its influence to save the next generation of women from
the negative effects ‘civilization’ had brought to the bodies of the current
generation, especially those related to luxury and fashion. [52]
A second strategy was to advise women on
how tight to lace their corsets. Women
were encouraged to seek advice from medical men instead of their husbands, as dressing
had increasingly become a medicalized issue. They were urged to submit their dress to a panel of physicians to
determine any potential dangers. It was
also commonly suggested that women allow their physicians to listen to their
breathing to determine if corsets were too restrictive. As the figure below depicts, male journalists
found the interests of the “physicians of fashion” did not stop at her
breathing capacity. For other physicians like A. B. Johnson, there was no
barometer of acceptance for tight-lacing: “Has any young lady been known to
acknowledge that she is unduly compressed? Pulmonary and spinal diseases,
lunacy and the grave reveal the rest. Let us decide what constitutes an undue
compression of the chest. I answer, any
degree of compression.” [53]
Hence, physicians tired to directly
intervene in the private ritual of dressing, and bring it under surveillance in
a public arena, the doctor’s office. To
wrestle authority from chamber maids or husbands, the medical literature
constructed men as vain, incompetent and sexually insecure. If husbands were left with the responsibility
of ensuring their wives were not laced too tightly, it was assumed they were
less interested in their health than in determining if their wives were
promiscuous. Contemporary cartoons were
rife of husbands looking for the telltale sign of back laces re-tied
differently from the bow or knot he had made in morning, suggesting anxieties
over the faithfulness of their wives.
Although many of the medical textbooks were
American in origin, clothing-related diseases were similarly framed in Canadian
medical journals. In attempting to
understand why women continued to wear corsets, some physicians who wrote in The Canada Medical Record found that
women were not solely to blame, since they were caught in a gendered beauty
trap governed by men. Men had real
economic, political and social power and selected brides of their pleasing. If
women desired marriage, then the cultivation of beauty was of utmost concern,
whether it was overtly admitted or not. On some level, several physicians understood the constraints of beauty,
and the unequal power relations that ensued.
Conclusion Medical knowledge and expertise was established in the
field of clothing from the Classical Period and gained increased legitimacy
through the clothing experiments, anatomical drawings of the eighteenth
century. By the late nineteenth century,
medical involvement shifted from a general concern on health and men and
women’s dress, to a specific emphasis on women’s dress, leisure pursuits such
as dancing and shopping and her role in ‘distorting’ her body. Messages were
constructed through the use of binary oppositions of healthy/diseased bodies,
natural/artificial and tight/loose dress. The reforming logic, developed by doctors, was that clothes were a
symbol of society’s health, and women’s dress was at the heart of this symbolic
representation. With birth rates
declining and a host of problems related to urbanization on the rise,
physicians defined middle class women’s experience of dressing as pathological
and treatable as a medical condition.
Thus, within the discourse of women’s dress reform,
the concepts of nature, freedom and health were incorporated into notions of
gender and the body. The physicians who
led the dress reform campaign in
Canada invoked their scientific
training to instill beliefs that reformulating clothing codes was necessary for
the betterment of society. By doing so,
the medical profession gained authority and control for defining appropriate
responses to women’s behaviour. By
diagnosing the “problem” and reinforcing their cultural authority, physicians
suggested they were in a better position to determine what was “tight and restrictive”. For many, they felt women were too accustomed
to the slight pain of wearing tight stays, and thus, were unable to make
“rational” decisions. Thus, their
cultural authority as physicians and gynaecologists allowed them to define
illness, locate disease and enter the debate on women’s healthy bodies. [1] Paul
Starr, The Social Transformation of
American Medicine (New York: Basic Books 1982) pp 13-21 and 79-144. See
also the discussion in Barbara Clow, Negotiating
Disease. Power and Cancer Care, 1900-1950 (Montreal & Kingston: McGill-Queen’s
University Press 2001) p. xiii. [2] For
further reading on the concept of medicalization, see B. S. Turner, Medical Power and Social Knowledge (Beverly Hills: Sage Publications 1987). [3] See
Daniel Roche, op.cit., p. 467-468. [4] It
is to be noted that the liquid sweat (Latin, sudor) was regarded as distinct to the invisible, insensible, perspiratio or perspiratio insensibilis. This discussion is outlined in E.T.
Renbourn and W.H. Rees, Materials and
Clothing in Health and Disease: History, Physiology and Hygiene: Medical and
Psychological Aspects with the Biophysics of Clothing, London: H.K. Lewis,
1972. See also Dr. J. J. Jenny, “Unhygienic Fashions”, Ciba Symposia, 6(1), (April 1944), pp. 1967-1977. [5] Renbourn, op.cit., p. 3. [6] In
Québec, the Lower Canada College of Physicians and Surgeons was established in
1847. Jacques Bernier attributed this early date to the pervasive social
conservatism of francophone Catholicism and politics. See Jacques Bernier, La médicine au Québec: naissance et évolution
d’une profession (Quebec: PUL 1986), pp.161-163. Terrie Romano argues that
the Ontario medical profession was created well in advance of the legislation
that created the College of Physicians and Surgeons of Ontario in 1869, in
response to the lack of legislative control over the profession in the United
States. See Terrie Romano, ‘Professional Identity and the Nineteenth Century
Ontario Medical Profession’, Histoire
sociale/Social History, 55 (May 1995), pp. 77-98. [7] See
J.T.H. Connor, “‘A sort of Felo-de-se’:
Eclectism, Related Medical Sects, and their Decline in Victorian Ontario’, Bulletin of the History of Medicine, 65
(1991), pp. 503-527; R.D. Gidney and W.P.J. Millar, “The Origins of Organized
Medicine in Ontario, 1850-1869”, in Charles Roland (ed) Health, Disease and Medicine. Essays in Canadian History, (Toronto:
Clarke Irwin 1984) p. 78; S.E.D. Shortt (ed), Medicine in Canadian Society: Historical Perspectives, (Montreal
& Kingston: McGill-Queen’s University Press 1981). [9] For
an excellent analysis of children’s dress reform, see Caroline Dinsmore Aylea, op.cit. [10] Henri Joseph Hardy, Dissertation sur l'influence des corsets et
l'operation du cancer de la mamelle,
Thesis (Université de Paris 1824) 25 p; Jean Jacques Rousseau, “On Tight
Lacing”, The Lancet, 9, 1785,
pp.1202-1203; Samuel Auguste David Tissot, An
essay on the disorders of people of fashion, (London: Richardson and
Urquhart 1771) 163p. [11] See
Phillipe Perrot, Fashioning the
Bourgeoise: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century (translated)
(New Jersey: Princeton University Press 1994), p. 150. See also Caroline
Dinsmore Aylea, op.cit. [12] A
Debay, Hygiene vestimentaire, 1851,
p. 170-171. [13] Andrew
Combe, The Principles of Physiology
Applied to the Preservation of Health (London: Fowler & Wells 1829), p.
182. [14] Christopher
Breward, The Culture of Fashion (Manchester:
Manchester University Press 1995), p.157 [15] Mel Davies, “Corsets and
Conception: Fashion and Demographic Trends in the Nineteenth Century”, Comparative Studies in Society and History:
an International Quarterly. 24, 4 (1982), p. 611-641. [16] Kenneth
Fenwick, M.D., Manual of Obstetics,
Gynaecology and Pediatrics (Kingston: J. Henderson 1889), p. 128. [17] Charles
B. Penrose, M.D., Ph.D., A Text-Book of
Diseases of Women, (Philadelphia: W.B. Saunders and Company 1898), p. 17. [18] Ibid.,
p. 18. [19] Ibid.,
p. 19. [20] Henry
Jacques Garrigues, M.D., A Textbook of
the Diseases of Women, (Philadelphia, 1894). [21] Ibid., p. 127. [22] R.W.
Garrett, 1897, p. 61. [23] Dr.
A. Lapthorn Smith, ‘Gynaecology and Obstetrics’, The Canada Medical Record, Montreal, 17(5), February 1889, pp.
97-98. [24] J.
Algernon Temple, ‘Dysmenorrhoea’, The
Canadian Practitioner, Toronto, December 1884, p. 362. [25] Ibid., p. 363. [26] Lapthorn
Smith, op.cit., 1891, p. 73. [27] Wendy
Mitchinson argues that most physicians were conservative in their approach to
their patients’ illness, preferring to combine non-interventionist techniques
and common sense. See Mitchinson, op.cit., 1991, p. 249. [28] Alexander
Skene, Medical Gynaecology: A Treatise on
the Diseases of Women from the Standpoint of the Physician (New York 1895),
p. 12. [29] Ibid.,
p. 12. [30] “Is
the Corset Injurious?”, The Canada
Medical Record, 17(2), November 1889, pp. 69-70. [31] Ibid,
p. 69.While the name of the “lady physician” was not given, the names of her
detractors were provided. [32] The
ailments included: a local inflammation of the liver, gall-stones and colic,
wandering liver, protuberant abdomen, prolapse and flexions of the womb,
lateral curvatures of the spine, anaemia, chlorosis, dyspepsia, diminished lung
capacity and oxygen starvation, intercostal neuralgia, weak eyes and Bright’s
disease. Ibid., p. 69. [33] Ibid., p. 70. [34] William
Goodell, M.D., Lessons in Gynaecology (Philadelphia 1887), pp. 548-549. [35] Mitchinson, op.cit., 1991, p. 159. [36] Lapthorn
Smith, p. 70. [37] Dr.
A. Lapthorn Smith, “Gynaecology and Obstetrics”, The Canada Medical Record, 17(5), February 1889, p. 97. [38] See
Kevin White, ‘Public Health and the Medical Profession in Nineteenth Century
Canada: A Historical Sociology’, Environments, 20(3), pp. 57-69. [39] T.
Arnold Haultain, “Errors in Hygiene-Female Clothing”, The Canada Lancet, 15, May 1883, pp. 263-265. [40] A.
Lapthorn Smith, op.cit., 1889, p. 25. [41] Which
speaks more about the lack of access to the same level of health care, and
hence, less diagnoses from Gynaecologists. [42] For
this discussion, see Wendy Mitchinson, op.cit, p. 65. [43] See Canadian Medical Record,
24, August 1896, p. 555. Dominion Medical Monthly and Ontario Medical
Journal, 7(3), September 1896, pp. 255-6 and volume 8(2), November 1896,
pp. 134-135. [44] “The
Winter Dress of Men”, The Canada Medical
Record, 17(4), January 1889, p. 85. [45] Ibid,
p. 85. [46] G.F.
Watts, R.A., “On Taste in Dress”, Nineteenth
Century, January 1883. [47] T.
Arnold Haultain, “Errors in Hygiene-Female Clothing”, The Canada Lancet, 15, May 1883, pp. 263-265. [48] Ibid,
p. 264. [49] T.
Arnold Haultain, “Errors in Hygiene-Female Clothing”, The Canada Lancet, 15, May 1883, pp. 263-265. [50] Leigh
Summers cites the example of Dr. Charles Cannaday, an American physician who
delivered a paper in Rome that criticized the medical profession for failing to
do more, and failing to offer a united protest against corsetry. Based on this
sole reference, Summers theorizes that the medical profession was ambivalent
about corsets and that “the message that corsetry was anathema to good health
did not successfully filter down to the general public”. Leigh Summers, Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian
Corset, (Oxford: Berg 2001), p. 89. See Charles Graham Cannaday, “The
Relation of Tight Lacing to Uterine Development and Abdominal and Pelvic
Disease”, Presented at the International Medical Congress in Rome, 1894, and
later published in American
Gynaecological and Obstetrical Journal, 5, 1895, pp. 632-640. [51] Dr.
A. Lapthorn Smith, op.cit., 1889, pp. 25-30. [52] Ibid.,
p. 30. [53] A.B.
Johnson, op.cit. About the Author Eileen O'Connor is a member of the faculty of health sciences, University of Ottawa. Published: June 8, 2007 |
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